Kitchen Countertops

Today we had the countertop installer come to do the final measurements so our new kitchen countertops can be installed. I’m very excited for this phase to be completed - once this happens we just have flooring and a few other small pieces to finish before the project is complete! We decided to go with Quartz for our countertop. There are MANY choices out there today when it comes to kitchen counter surfaces. Here are some highlights for some of the more popular high-end choices:

Engineered Stone – Quartz This relatively new countertop material is a composite of rock aggregate (makes up 90% of its mass), resin and pigments. Engineered stone is sold under brand names called Silestone, for example and will commonly be referred to as quartz. Available in dozens of colors, it is non-porous and scratch-resistant. Because these stones do not contain fissures or veins, the strength of a slab may be more consistent throughout than that of natural stone. This consistency also makes seams easy to match. Pros - Easy to maintain; resistant to stains, heat, scratches, and acid. Sealing is generally not required. Color is consistent throughout so scratches are less noticeable than with other materials. The most durable of all countertop materials. Cons - Expensive; less natural looking than marble or granite.

Granite A popular countertop choice because of its appearance and durability, granite is siliceous stone made from an extremely hard volcanic rock. It is available in a range of colors and is often flecked with bits of minerals that produce a salt-and-pepper look. There are two types: consistent; which has the same pattern throughout, and variegated; which has veins. Pros - heat resistant, beautifully colored, each slab of granite is unique; good surface for working with pastry dough, since it doesn't conduct heat. Cons - Expensive; requires regular maintenance, including periodic sealing, stains; can crack; can be tough on dishes and glassware; variegated granite pieces are hard to match.

Marble Marble countertops are beautiful but because it is a calcareous stone, marble is softer and more porous than granite. Its permeability makes it susceptible to scratches, chips, and stains and its lustre can be dulled if not properly cared for. Many homeowners choose to confine it to an island or baking center. Pros - holds up well to heat; beautiful and luxurious; ideal for rolling out dough since it doesn't conduct heat. Cons - Expensive; must be sealed to protect it from stains; requires regular maintenance; very soft so it scratches easily; Can be tough on dishes and glassware.

Concrete To create countertops, concrete is mixed with pigment, then poured into molds on-site, or pre-cast in a workshop. After it is troweled smooth, it takes several days to dry and harden. It must then be sealed to guard against stains. Concrete counters can be as thick as desired, although anything more than four inches could strain supporting cabinets and floors. Pros - heat and scratch resistant; can be tinted in a wide range of colors; can be molded into different shapes to accommodate integral sinks, drain boards, and decorative edging. Cons - Expensive and very heavy; cracking is common so make sure you hire a professional to pour. Very porous so it stains unless not sealed very well. Tough on dishes and glassware.

Kitchen Lighting

 

We are still in the process of renovating our kitchen. Now that some of the cabinets are in and drywall is ready to be installed its time to look at our kitchen lighting. Lighting for your kitchen is probably one of the most important considerations when changing the layout or even enhancing the kitchen you currently have. There are three categories of lighting to consider whenever you are renovating or designing any room.

General Lighting	This lighting is designed to brighten the room enough to walk around safely. Commonly this will be ceiling fixtures, track lighting or recessed lights.
Task Lighting	This is the most important lighting in a kitchen. You will want to install it anywhere you have a working surface. For example, counters need lateral light for food preparation, and sink and stove areas need down light for more precise tasks.
Decorative Lighting	A kitchen may not require this type of lighting, however; if you have have wall sconces or other ambient light, it would be considered decorative, meaning it does not provide specific lighting for a need, but more for the look and design of the room.

Our kitchen will have both General and Task lighting installed. Since opening up our ceiling would add many more hours to the renovation, we our going to utilize track lighting for the ceiling. Each fixture provides 4 directional halogen bulbs that we can direct to different areas of the room. With no upper cabinets being installed the kitchen will be brighter, with less shadows on the countertop. However; having task lights for working surfaces is very important. We will be installing 2 small halogen puck lights underneath each open shelf, a pendant light above the sink, and our new hood fan has integrated halogen lighting for the stove top.

The Most Common Mistakes Many of my clients that have attempted to create there own lighting plans for kitchen renovations encounter these three common mistakes.

	Attempting to light the kitchen with one ceiling fixture mounted in the middle of your room. Not only does a single light source become “glare” any time you look into the kitchen, but also you don’t get the light you need on your countertops. Every time you bend forward to do work on your countertops you are working in your own shadow.
	Planning a recessed lighting layout in a grid pattern without any relationship to your cabinet plan or lighting needs. The first question to ask when planning your lighting is: "why light?" Once you know why, then you can plan the type of light you need.
	Not planning for adequate wall space to locate your lighting controls. Many times a full height refrigerator end panel is placed too close to a room entry. Other times there is a tall cabinet placed nearest to the entry. In each of these examples there is no room to place the lighting controls.

Deciding on a Refrigerator

We now have our new Refrigerator installed. It’s lovely and HUGE! You wouldn’t think two people would need so much space in a refrigerator, but we’ve filled it to the brim already. We chose a Samsung 28.5 cu.ft. stainless steel French door with bottom freezer model. The best part about it as I never have to make ice again. It pumps out 4.5 lbs of ice per day!

Being the diligent designer that I am, a lot of research was done prior to choosing this model. I thought I’d share some of my findings with you. Refrigerators made after the end of April 2008 must be 5 percent more efficient to qualify for an Energy Star emblem. But despite advances, refrigerators still use more electricity than any other kitchen appliance because they're always on. The familiar yellow EnergyGuide labels and Energy Star symbols are a useful guide, but not necessarily the only thing you should consider when making your purchase. There are many types/models of refrigerators out there, each offering their own pros and cons. I’ve listed them below along with the most common and useful options available.

 

Top-freezer refrigerators	These are the traditional type, dating back to the earliest refrigerators. Widths typically run from about 30 to 33 inches. Manufacturers claim up to 22-cubic-foot capacities, but usable capacity is typically 20 percent lower by our measurements. Typically, these models offer the most storage for their size. Since they have fairly wide shelves, it makes it easy to reach all the way to the back. The downside is you have to bend to reach the bottom shelves and drawers.
Bottom-freezer refrigerators	Sales of bottom-freezer Refrigerators are the fastest growing. Widths run from 30 to 36 inches with claimed capacity of up to 26 cubic feet. The bottom-freezers offer eye-level storage and the French-door models provide space-saving narrow door swing of a side-to-side and the ability to open only half the refrigerator when retrieving smaller items. Although you have to bend down when using the freezer, this isn’t typically done as often as accessing the refrigerator.
Side-by-side refrigerators	A vertical, full-length split places the freezer on one side and refrigerator on the other. Side-by-sides typically come with through-the-door ice and water dispensers, temperature-controlled bins, and rapid ice-making cycles. Widths are typically 32 to 36 inches. Claimed capacities are up to 30 cubic feet, but only about 65 to 70 percent is usable. The narrow doors are a plus in a tight kitchen, however; most door don’t open wide enough for a pizza box or other wide items.
Cabinet-depth refrigerators	This type gives you the look of a built-in but for less money. Because the refrigerator is the same depth of your cabinets you achieve a very streamlined look throughout your kitchen. Most come as side-by-sides, but top- and bottom-freezers and French-door models are available. Claimed capacities reach up to 21 cubic feet, but far less than that is usable. The cabinet-depth models have less usable space than the deeper free-standing models, but they cost significantly more.
Refrigerator drawers	These are among the latest luxuries for kitchens where even the biggest refrigerator simply isn't enough. They can mount under a cabinet or in a kitchen island and are ideal for storing drinks and other specialized items. They don’t cost as much to run as their larger counterparts, but that’s because of their limited capacity. Refrigerator drawers are large on price and small on space, leaving them to the elite in kitchen design.

 

Once you have selected a type of refrigerator that you would like you should consider what options are important. Below are some of the most common and useful on the market:

Adjustable door bins and shelves Elevator shelves Full-extension drawers Pullout shelves or bins Split shelves Shelf snuggers Temperature controlled drawers Through the door water and ice dispenser Water filter